2012 Domaine Michel Lafarge, Volnay Premier Cru, Clos des Chenes

Dark shades of blue/blackish fruit grace the palate in Lafarge's 2012 Volnay Clos des Chenes. This is an unusually supple, resonant young Clos des Chenes. Whereas the Caillerets possesses energy from its tannin and minerality, the Clos des Chenes is round and virtually seamless in texture, with all of the structural elements seemingly folded into the fruit. The 2012 is perhaps a bit atypical in its richness, but it is a real stunner just the same.

The 2012 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes is a long way from maturity, but it was far from inscrutable after an hour’s decant, offering up a beautifully precise bouquet of plum, griotte cherry, peony and forest floor. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, textural, refined and multidimensional, with succulent acids, compelling structural harmony and a long, sapid finish. A very impressive showing, living up to its promise from barrel.

Bright red. Very ripe aromas of musky red berries and underbrush. Less pristine and primary than the Caillerets, showing more apparent earth tones today. But this very backward, extract-rich wine nonetheless boasts superb intensity, energy and breadth. The tannins really spread out and glisten on the long, tactile finish. The Lafarges always destem their Volnays as Michel Lafarge has always maintained that Volnay is "not a terroir for vendange entier."