2008 Domaine Michel Lafarge, Volnay Premier Cru, Clos des Chenes

Good deep red. High-pitched aromas of black cherry, violet, licorice and crushed stone. Like liquid silk on entry, then concentrated, primary and penetrating in the mid-palate, with beautifully integrated acidity accentuating the wine's dark, medicinal aspect. At once broad and lively on the finish, with rich dark fruit flavors building slowly and staining the palate. I might have picked this blend as a Cote de Nuits wine.

The 2008 Volnay Clos des Chenes is a powerful, intense Burgundy. There is a weightless energy to the Clos des Chenes that I find hugely appealing. Beautifully delineated aromatics and fruit are nicely framed by the clean, saline finish. This is an impeccable wine from Lafarge. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2033. A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet, various American importers, including: Martin Scott Wines, Little Neck, NY; tel. (516) 327-0808; Veritas Imports, Beverly Hills, CA; tel. (310) 205-3803; Toepfer Imports LLC, CO; tel. (303) 818-7640

The 2008 Volnay Clos des Chênes 1er Cru is a vintage where Frédéric Lafarge mentioned there were many decisions to take during the season. It has quite an austere, Pommard-like bouquet, well defined and fresh, but undeniably just a little earthy (damp earth) and rustic. The palate is well balanced with ample depth, slightly minty on the entry, fresh with a linear, quite masculine finish. But this has evolved very nicely over the last 13 years, and whilst not the best vintage, it is à point and delicious.