2020 Domaine Michel Lafarge, Volnay Premier Cru, Les Caillerets

The 2020 Volnay Les Caillerets 1er Cru has a beautifully delineated bouquet that unfurls in the glass. Maybe less immediate than its peers, there is wonderful black cherry, raspberry and crushed stone scents on the nose, the latter becoming more prominent with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grain tannins, sour cherry and raspberry, strict on the saline finish. Have cellar handy.

The most sensual wine in the range is the 2020 Volnay 1er Cru Les Caillerets, a beautiful cuvée that soars from the glass with notes of wild berries, rose petals, orange rind and sweet soil tones. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and enveloping, with lively acids, melting tannins and a saline finish, it's seamless and elegant.

Cask sample. Deep ruby; high-toned and mineral. Seemingly discreet but sweeping breadth and length. (MH)