2020 Domaine Michel Lafarge, Beaune Premier Cru, Les Greves Rouge

The 2020 Beaune Grèves 1er Cru comes from 90-year old vines. It was much more backaward than the Clos des Aigrots, scents of dark cherries, cranberry and Tayberry emerging with time. The palate is medium-bodied with more substance than the Clos des Aigrots, gentle grip, very harmonious with perfectly judged acidity and an almost pixelated finish. Outstanding.

The Lafarge's 99-year-old vines have turned in a terrific effort with the 2020 Beaune 1er Cru Les Grèves. Mingling aromas of dark berries and cherries with hints of rose petals, raw cocoa and forest floor, the wine is medium to full-bodied, deep and concentrated, with ripe, powdery tannins and lively acids. It's a touch more enveloping and expansive in style than the more tensile Clos des Aigrots, a fine distinction that I suspect will become more apparent with bottle age.

Cask sample. Bright mid ruby. Lovely, lacy fragrance – cherry and redcurrants. Fresh acidity; very approachable now. (MH)