2020 Maison Louis Jadot, Volnay Premier Cru, Clos des Chenes

The 2020 Volnay Clos des Chênes 1er Cru comprises of one 456-litre barrel this year. It has a very well-defined bouquet with seamlessly integrated oak and impressive mineralité. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit, fine delineation, just a little chewiness on the entry but there is tension interwoven into this Volnay from start to finish, plus great persistency. Superb.

Opening in the glass with notes of cherries, minty raspberries, peonies and spices, the 2020 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes (Domaine Louis Jadot) is medium to full-bodied, bright and fleshy, its layered core of fruit framed by sweet, powdery tannins and bright acids. This is less tightly wound than it appeared to be in barrel and will offer more early accessibility than I perceived.

Cask sample. Mid translucent crimson. Fragrant, a little floral, a touch stony/mineral. Taut, dry, tannic finesse. Light-bodied, scented, with the finest of dry tannins. Lots of layers, chalky dry finish. Delicate but not insubstantial. (JH)