2023 Domaine Louis Jadot, Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru, Clos Saint-Jacques

The 2023 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint-Jacques 1er Cru, which was shown as a blend of foudre and barrel, really shows its class (as usual). It is blessed with much more delineation and mineralité than the Estournelles or Lavaux, soaring in the glass with vivacious red fruit and just a subtle flintiness in the background. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins. It does not quite possess the ambition of the 2022 and is perhaps a little stricter, but I adore the hoisin-tinged finish and sustained peppery aftertaste. There is class here, and this should age easily for 20 to 25 years.

The 2023 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos Saint-Jacques (Domaine Louis Jadot) is also showing well, revealing notes of plums and cherries mingled with notions of licorice and toasty new oak. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and seamless, with a sweet core of fruit and supple, powdery tannins, it will offer a broad drinking window.

Cask sample. Scary price! Mid to light cherry red. Beautifully fragrant with both dark-red fruit and a gentle floral seduction. Fine peppery spice. Rounded, generous in fruit yet tightly wound in structure. I know this is a big name but I don’t think it is worth double the price of the Premier Cru Estournelles-St-Jacques. It is deep, long and delicious. (JH)