2002 Domaine Louis Jadot, Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru, Clos Saint-Jacques

Full red. Raspberry and floral high notes with lower tones of earth and underbrush. Smooth and silky in the mouth, with the raspberry and floral flavors dominating. Less obviously sweet today than the Estournelles but this is wonderfully suave wine, with an exhilarating weightlessness on the back end. The very long finish is dominated by tangy raspberry. (In contrast to my superb pair of Gevrey premier crus, my sample of the Jadot Chapelle-Chambertin was too advanced, and my Mazis-Chambertin was corked.)

Full reddish brown. Knockout perfumed nose combines raspberry, mocha, truffle and smoky minerality ("we're entering the world of fungus, humus and leaves," noted winemaker Frédéric Barnier). Utterly spherical and round, conveying seamless flavors of raspberry, truffley underbrush and coffee. Slightly edgy tannins and acids draw out and give shape to the finish. But this bottle is a bit more evolved than I would have guessed. I'd drink it over the next few years.