2014 Henri Boillot, Pommard Premier Cru, Les Rugiens

(50% of the crop was lost to hail, but Volnay production in 2014 was down closer to 75%, according to Guillaume Boillot; half from Rugiens Hauts and half from Rugiens Bas; 50% new oak):Bright, dark, healthy red. Inviting iron-y perfume of redcurrant, red cherry, rust, spices, white pepper and minerals. Silky in texture and intense, communicating insinuating soil salinity to its red fruit and mineral flavors. Finishes with noble tannins and rising spicy length. For such a fine-grained wine, this boasts terrific thrust.

The 2014 Pommard 1er Cru Les Rugiens has a fragrant bouquet, almost Volnay-like, gentle and caressing with scents of raspberry and cranberry, contained but pure. The palate is fresh and vibrant on the entry, sappy red berry fruit here with a pleasing saline element towards the finish. There is very prudent use of new oak here and the wine really shows its terroir to good effect. Very fine.

Pale crimson. Lots of sweet, gentle, expressive fruit. I tasted this immediately after de Courcel’s Rugiens and much preferred it. This lives and charms. (JR)