2012 Henri Boillot, Montrachet Grand Cru

Slightly hazy due to a recent stirring of the lees. Highly complex nose combines candied lemon, pineapple, menthol, linden tea, ginger and caramel. Thick and seamless in texture and showing a slightly exotic candied quality, but racy acidity gives sharp relief to the intense orange and lemon zest fruit. Really echoes on the gripping finish, showing a whiplash of citrus and saline flavors. These were the latest-picked vines in 2012, along with the Batard and Corton-Charlemagne, but this stunning wine remains just on the right side of surmaturite.

Boillot's 2012 Montrachet is surprisingly mid-weight and restrained in this vintage. The aromas and flavors are also on the bright, floral side of the spectrum. Overall, this is a fairly delicate, feminine Montrachet with good length and polish, but less of the exuberance I associate with Boillot's Montrachet.