2010 Henri Boillot, Chambertin Grand Cru

(from very old vines cropped at 20 hectoliters per hectare): Bright, clear ruby-red. Multidimensional nose combines black raspberry, clove, licorice, mint, leather and game. Silky on entry, then saline and powerful but utterly seamless in the middle. Solid as a rock but not at all heavy. Perfectly integrated acidity and suave, building tannins gives this chewy, sappy wine outstanding thrust on the extremely long, resounding finish.

The 2010 Chambertin is a huge, towering wine bursting with blackberries, blueberries, cassis and violets, all of which come together beautifully in a large-scaled, sumptuous style that is highly unusual. Suave tannins frame the fruit on the explosive finish. There is no shortage of personality here. Boillot waited until October 7 to harvest this fruit, very late even by the standards of the year.