2015 Robert Groffier, Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru, Les Sentiers

The 2015 Chambolle-Musigny Les Sentiers 1er Cru has an engaging, enticing, detailed bouquet of tart red cherry, red currant, crushed stone and subtle undergrowth/fern aromas that gather momentum with aeration. The palate is beautifully balanced, with integrated new oak that complements and enhances the substance of this outstanding Chambolle-Musigny. It just feels natural and self-assured at this early stage, which is surely is a good omen for the future. Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting.

(bottled the day before my visit; vinified with 90% whole clusters and aged in 50% new oak): Dark red-ruby. Very ripe but sappy aromas of red cherry liqueur and smoky oak. Full, broad, dense and fine-grained, with its sweetness nicely restrained by savory minerality. Carrying a good bit of baby fat but this premier cru is extremely unevolved today. The pliant, saline finish shows terrific tannin management. The crop level was just 20 hectoliters per hectare, noted Groffier, who told me he made 40 in 2016 as the vines were not affected by frost.