2014 Robert Groffier, Chambertin-Clos de Beze Grand Cru

The 2014 Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru is slightly deeper in colour than the Bonnes-Mares. It has a splendid bouquet with brambly red berry fruit, sous-bois and black truffle that blossoms in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with a fine structure, good backbone here with a slightly savory, dried blood-tinged finish that lingers in the mouth. There is just a hint of salted liquorish that pops up on the aftertaste. Excellent. Tasted at the Domaine.

(these vines are now almost 90 years old; 100% new oak;100% vendange entier ): Blackberry, wild blueberry, licorice, crushed-rock minerality and bitter chocolate on the compelling nose and palate, plus a captivating hint of purple flowers. Very suave and dense but juicy too, showing a more pronounced saline element than the other 2014s at this address. Most impressive today on the very long, juicy, rising finish, which features strong but fine-grained tannins. Production here was barely 25 hectoliters per hectare, as the tiny berries produce a consistently low crop. Incidentally, Groffier uses barrels from François Frères and Remond with three years of drying.