2005 Robert Groffier, Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru, Les Amoureuses

The 2005 Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureuses offers gorgeous aromas of black raspberry, bergamot, orange zest, narcissus and white pepper. Lovely deep, dark fruit shadings with subtle chalkiness and fresh, raw meatiness along with persistent inner-mouth florality inform a firmly but finely tannic and expansive palate. This really sticks to the gums, with a superb smoky, sappy, pungent persistence. A Peter Vezan Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93.

Good deep red. Raspberry, game and roast coffee on the nose, with treble notes of ginger and orange rind. Silky, fresh, rich and chewy, with a concentrated flavor of dark raspberry along with a lightly peppery quality. The substantial tannins are ultimately seamless and yet this shows excellent rather than outstanding length. This is very good, but I wonder if this steep parcel experienced a slight blockage of maturity in this warm, dry summer. I would forget about this wine for at least five or six years, maybe longer.