2023 Robert Groffier, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru

For reports and full tasting notes, go toTim Atkin MW's website.

The 2023 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru was completely destemmed, like Groffier's other cuvées this vintage, and matured in 50% new oak. Unlike the Les Amoureuses, this needed time to open in the glass. Blackberry, briar, black pepper and light iris flower scents emerge with time, but this is a more bashful Bonnes-Mares for the moment. The palate is medium-bodied with a little more backbone than the Amoureuses and perhaps more sapidity. It's maybe uncompromising in some ways, but nothing wrong with that. The Les Amoureuses has a little more sensuality, but this is still a very fine Grand Cru for long term aging.

The 2023 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru is muscular and structured, offering up aromas of raspberries, orange zest, rose petals, incense and spices, followed by a medium to full-bodied palate with a broad, fleshy attack that segues into a taut, structured mid-palate.

Deep crimson. Bitter cherries and very vibrant, with a strong tannic undertow, but this may well come right. A better, fruitier bet than Les Amoureuses? But still the finish is pretty drying. (JR)