2019 Domaine Jean Grivot, Vosne-Romanee Premier Cru, Les Rouges

The 2019 Vosne-Romanée Les Rouges 1er Cru has "grown up a lot over the last 10 years," according to Etienne Grivot. It is one of the more reticent cuvées on the nose this year, reluctantly unfolding to reveal more tertiary red berry fruit laced with garrigue and iodine. Good complexity, but these aromatics will need time to open. The palate is medium-bodied with supple, lithe tannins. Quite compact at the moment, this has good grip and a saline, marine-influenced finish that fans out beautifully. A succinct, understated Les Rouge that will give 20-plus years of pleasure.

Cask sample. Mid crimson with a purplish rim. Ripe, rich and seductive, perfumed as well as deep in fruit. Lovely smooth tannins but lots of them. This is a step up from the Nuits Aux Boudots. Glossy but serious underneath. (JH)