2016 Domaine Jean Grivot, Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru

The 2016 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru is showing well from bottle, unfurling in the glass with aromas of dark berries, rose petals, cassis and spices, subtly framed by new wood. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, broad and nicely concentrated, its chassis of velvety tannin largely cloaked in juicy fruit, concluding with a nicely delineated finish. It's comparatively elegant in style. The 2016 is derived almost exclusively from Grivot's holdings at the bottom of the vineyard as his higher-lying plots were ravished by frost.

Bright, dark red-ruby. Pure but muted aromas of medicinal black cherry and licorice. In a distinctly virile style and hard to taste today following the sensational range of Vosne premier crus, as this youthfully imploded wine shows more pronounced herb, menthol and earth elements and little early sweetness. A forceful if less sophisticated wine but its tannins are still rather smooth (Grivot described it as "un grand garçon maladroit" ). This will never make a showy tasting wine but it should work well with serious cold-weather fare. Made almost entirely from Grivot's lowest Clos Vougeot wines near the Route Nationale, as his vines a bit higher up were more affected by the frost.

The 2016 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru has a perfumed bouquet with smudged red cherries and crushed strawberry fruit, although I would have liked more mineralité to show through. The palate is medium-bodied with crushed red cherries, strawberry, orange rind and hints of brown spice, tapering just a little towards the tobacco infused finish. I must confess that I was surprised when this wine was revealed as a Grivot since it tasted much better out of barrel. I wonder if it may be entering a dumb phase. Tasted blind at the 2016 Burgfest tasting.

A blend from three different parcels, the lowest of which can be quite interesting in a very dry summer – good climate effect. Rich crimson. Gamey and very different from their Vosnes. Lots of gas and tension. Chewy finish and solid. Good attempt but I miss the energy of the Vosnes! Big and muscly. Very long. Needs food! (JR)