2012 Domaine Fourrier, Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru, Clos Saint-Jacques Vieille Vigne

Bright dark, fresh red. Pungent, high-pitched aromas of raspberry, minerals, rose petal and blood orange. Incredibly sappy, vibrant and imploded, showing outstanding lift and cut to its red berry and floral flavors. Not quite opulent but utterly seamless wine, finishing with explosive length and fine-grained tannins. This wonderfully juicy Clos Saint-Jacques is hiding its underlying density today. This is now 12.8% alcohol, without chaptalization.

A wine of pure texture, the 2012 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St.-Jacques is deep, fleshy and totally seductive. Black cherry, plum, menthol and licorice notes meld together in a voluptuous, layered wine endowed with serious pedigree. Firm tannins and veins of intense minerality lurk beneath, but the fruit is so intense as to make them barely noticeable. Rose petals, mint and licorice meld together on the gracious finish. Readers who can find the Clos St.-Jacques are in for a treat.

Vines planted 1900/01. Nine casks compared with the usual 15-18 – so little that his father was in tears. Scented and savoury – the most seductive and expressive of the three Clos St-Jacques I have tasted today but this is truly glorious. Not massive in construction but very linear and limpid. Crunchy very clean – clean as a mountain stream! (JR)