2011 Domaine Fourrier, Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru, Clos Saint-Jacques Vieille Vigne

Deep, bright red. A note of reduction quickly dissipated to reveal brilliantly pure scents of raspberry, rose petal and blood orange. Dense, thick and rich but with superb vinosity thanks to perfectly integrated acidity. Still a bit youthfully unforthcoming in the mid-palate, but finishes tactile and extremely long, with rising flavors of raspberry and salty minerality.

Fourrier's 2011 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St.-Jacques stands out for its pure textural depth and richness. This is one of the more solid, imposing wines in the range. Firm tannins frame a huge core of fruit. With time in the glass, the broad shoulders fill out nicely. Of all the Fourrier 2011s, the Clos St.-Jacques is likely to be among the slowest to mature. Readers who can find it need to be prepared to be patient.

The 2011 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St.-Jacques 1er Cru comes from one of my own bottles. As previous bottles have shown, it is initially markedly reduced on the nose, a little stemmy at first and then reveals enticing gamey aromas. The palate is superior to the aromatics. This is very well balanced and harmonious with fine tannin, still imbued with a sense of symmetry I have remarked upon since barrel. Promising, however, I would like to see some melioration on the nose. Tasted privately at home.

The wine volunteered by the organiser of the 2017 think tank on fine wine, Nicole Rolet, because one like it had been her wine epiphany. Sweet, fresh, lifted with a tiny hint of something not disagreeably vegetal. Gorgeously complete even at this early stage. (JR)