2013 Domaine Fourrier, Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru, Les Goulots Vieille Vigne

The 2013 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru les Goulots has great transparency on the nose: real delineation here, almost aloof, but intriguing. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins. This is a more masculine premier cru: structured and linear, but there is fine weight and intensity on the finish with a dash of white pepper on the aftertaste. Excellent.

Dark red with ruby highlights. Aromas of blueberry, raspberry, leather and game, lifted by a crushed stone element. In a supple, ripe style, but with terrific sappy intensity and lift to the crushed raspberry and mineral flavors. The tannins are fine-grained and sweet. A stunning example of this calcaire-rich premier cru.

Very small premier cru. Cool north of the village near Combe aux Moines. Took JMF 14 years to understand the site. Intense crimson. Fresh and fragrant. Lots of attack and depth. Well structured. Finishes just a little bit short. Falls away a bit suddenly. Good but not great. (JR)