2011 Domaine Fourrier, Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru, Combe au Moine Vieille Vigne

The 2011 Gevrey-Chambertin Le Combe Aux Moines has a bit of everything. Light on its feet and aromatically expressive, the Combe Aux Moines also has plenty of fruit and underlying structure. In 2011, the Combe Aux Moines stands out for its saline vibrancy. There is a weightless intensity in the glass that is simply a marvel to behold.

(from a crop level of just 30 hectoliters per hectare, according to Fourrier): Good bright, deep red. Raspberry and medicinal herbs on the nose, complicated by spices and nutty oak. Dense and intense, with distinctly dark flavors of black cherry and crushed rock. The rocky character follows through on the vibrant, sappy, palate-staining finish. These vines are planted next to a stone wall and can get very ripe, noted Fourrier, who uses 20% new oak for his wines across the board.

Darker fruited than the Cherbaudes and a little more spice. Tannins so fine they are already silky. Real intensity and line even though it is so refined. Great length. Delicious. (JH)

A little darker than the Champeaux. Dry and solid and crunchy. Ambitious and long term. Sappy with a dry finish. Lots of fine tannin but very crunchy and impressive for the long term. (JR)