2018 Clos de Tart, Morey-Saint-Denis Premier Cru, La Forge de Tart

For reports and full tasting notes, go toTim Atkin MW's website.

This was previously a cuvée made by Clos de Tart only in certain years (often when they needed greater selection for the first wine) but it will now be produced annually from the vines that are under 20 years old. Touches of caramel-edged oak at first that is slightly intrusive, but as it opens up there is tons of blueberry and raspberry fruit. Fresh and appealing, silky with edges of steel.

The 2018 Morey-Saint-Denis La Forge de Tart 1er Cru is a little more rustic on the nose compared to the nascent 2019. Blackberry, wild hedgerow, potpourri and light mineral aromas vie for attention. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly edgy/chalky tannins on the entry. Good acidity, maybe a little rustic and quite peppery, despite this cuvée being 100% de-stemmed. I like the fact that this wears its heart on its sleeve.

This is the cuvée the old regime used for less-satisfactory vintages but the new regime plans to base it on particular plots, in this case plot 8 planted in 1999 and another plot planted in 2011. From now on there will be a Forge de Tart every year. Very little whole bunch. Cask sample. Pretty firm and briary on the nose. Very slightly low in acidity but flattering. Dry tannins on the finish. Much less charming than the village wine at present. (JR)