2017 Clos de Tart, Morey-Saint-Denis Premier Cru, La Forge de Tart

La Forge de Tart isn't made every year - there was no 2012, 2013 or 2015 - but when it is made, it uses the younger vines planted between 1999 and 2011. For people who can't afford the grand vin, it's a good introduction to the shift in style over the last two or three vintages. It has subtle red fruits, floral top-notes, nicely handled 80% new wood and appealing precision, texture and minerality.

The 2017 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru La Forge de Tart opens in the glass with a generous bouquet of ripe cherries, berries and rose petals that are framed by a touch of creamy new oak. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, succulent and open, with a charming core of fruit and youthfully chewy tannins that are more evident from bottle than they were from barrel.