2015 Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard, Criots-Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru

The 2015 Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru, which came in at around 13.5% alcohol, has a lovely nose with scents of lemon curd, apricot blossom and cold limestone, a touch of mango emerging with time. The palate is extremely well balanced with a fine line of acidity. There is energy and tension here, tightening up towards the finish but still persistent in the mouth. This has great potential, a reserved Criots that should spread its wings once in bottle.

(the highest in alcohol of these 2015s along with the Morgeot, at 13.6%): Bright yellow. Deep, very ripe aromas of yellow fruits, flowers and honey. Opulent, silky and sweet, conveying a strong impression of dusty extract, but penetrating lemony acidity gives the wine a slightly disjointed quality today as well as a touch of bitterness. Finishes with some exotic lichee and banana notes.