2016 Domaine William Fevre, Chablis Grand Cru, Valmur

For reports and full tasting notes, go toTim Atkin MW's website.

(vinified entirely in oak, then moved into cuve in January; just 24 hectoliters per hectare produced): Pale, slightly hazy yellow. Very ripe but discreet nose hints at spices, anise and lichee. Glyceral and rich, but with surprising citrussy acidity to shape the exotic fruit and lichee flavors. A powerful, dense yet silky wine from marl soil, this was picked at close to 13% potential alcohol. Finishes with an impression of solidity but this is hard to taste today.

The 2016 Chablis Grand Cru Valmur was more closed than the Vaudésir on the nose and perhaps at this nascent stage does not exude the same charm. The palate is balanced and quite concentrated thanks to the yield at just 13 to 14 hectoliters per hectare. It improves toward the second half with an attractive fresh pear and white pepper-tinged finish, although it feels a little gruff and broody at the moment.