2017 Domaine William Fevre, Chablis Grand Cru, Bougros Cote Bouguerots

The 2017 Chablis Bougros Côte Bouguerots Grand Cru is mind-bending. Usually a more powerful Chablis, in 2017 the Côte Bouguerots is airy, weighty and beautifully lifted, with pretty floral and saline notes that confer a great deal of freshness. The 2017 opens up beautifully with time in the glass, showing tons of volume and resonance, all retaining its bright, sculpted personality.

There’s a chalky definition on the nose here that is really striking; it combines with fresh lime juice and aromas of lime oil, as well as green mangoes. The palate is so juicy and so succulent and offers a seamlessly smooth run of white peaches, wrapped tight with fresh acidity and turning gently savory at the finish. Drink or hold.

The 2017 Chablis Bougros Côte Bouguerots Grand Cru has a gentle, lilting apple blossom bouquet, quite simple for a Grand Cru. The palate is well balanced with crisp acidity, taut and linear, with green apple and citrus peel toward the edgy finish. Understated, but a classy number, though it does miss a little nervosité to those looking for it. Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting in Savigny-lès-Beaune.

Tasted from bottle, the 2017 Chablis Grand Cru Bougros Côte Bouguerots is already quite open and expressive, bursting with aromas of fresh peaches, oatmeal and dried white flowers, with little trace of the reduction it showed from barrel. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, satiny but incisive, displaying good concentration and an impressive spine of tangy acidity, which lends superb cut and drive to the chalky finish.

More restrained than their Les Preuses, with floral scent on the nose and ripe, almost peachy fruit on the palate. Fresh acid, good persistence, good structural balance. (RH)