1999 Domaine Rene Engel, Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru

A similar appearance to JJ Confuron's 99. A typical Clos-de-Vougeot nose: meaty, mushroomy quite Musigny-like in style. The palate is full-bodied with noticeable new oak. Not as sophisticated or as refined as Confuron`s. Quite muscular with moderate acidity. Has a citrus edge on the finish which gives it some lift, although it lacks the balletic poise of great Pinot Noir. Drink from 2010. Tasted July 2005.

Full ruby-red. Penetrating aromas of blackcurrant, black cherry, dark chocolate, minerals and red licorice, plus a whiff of old barrel. Juicy and penetrating but quite tightly wrapped. A wine of finesse rather than weight, but with subtle power as well. Finishes with chewy, chocolatey tannins and very good length. This will get dry if it not bottled soon.

Pale garnet. A really interesting wine that initially seemed a little diffuse and effete but as it was aerated it gained focus and concentration. Initially the nose was a bit old with lots of veginess and dustiness. Malty and then really quite concentrated, sweet and focused. It took on new vigour with the second pour and became more like the less gracious, structured Beaux Monts 1999 from Méo-Camuzet served alongside. (JR)