2018 Domaine Duroche, Gevrey-Chambertin, Aux Etelois

Aux Etelois is often my pick of Pierre Duroché's line up of village Gevrey-Chambertins, partly because it's located right next to the Griotte-Chambertin Grand Cru. Savoury, spicy and succulent, with just a touch of ageworthy reduction, some spice and texture from 20% whole bunches and no new wood at all. Sweet raspberry fruit is framed by acidity and palate-caressing tannins.

For reports and full tasting notes, go toTim Atkin MW's website.

Bursting with aromas of raspberries, cherries, cassis and violets, the 2018 Gevrey-Chambertin Aux Etelois is medium to full-bodied, layered and succulent, with fine concentration, lively acids, powdery tannins and a long, perfumed finish. From a small triangle of this village lieu-dit that sits between Griotte-Chambertin and Charmes-Chambertin, this parcel was planted between 1922 and 1956. It's always the insider's choice chez Duroché.

For the first time, Pierre Duroché has blended 30% whole bunch into his 2018 Gevrey-Chambertin Aux Etelois, since he believes it will impart more freshness and complexity. But he told me that he wanted to remain prudent and add no more than that percentage to avoid reducing acidity too much. This whole-bunch addition works well on the nose, where flecks of black pepper and clove infuse the dark berry fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins and moderate depth, perhaps just missing a little depth and grip toward the finish. But it does deliver plenty of personality, and I look forward to revisiting it in bottle.

One of their earliest-picked vineyards. 20% whole bunch. Some of the parcel goes into the Gevrey village wine. Some vines planted 1964 and yielding only 20 hl/ha – lots of millerandage . Tank sample but about to be bottled. Darker fruited than Les Jeunes Rois, more subtle and lightly peppery, dark and rocky. Almost savoury with something like rock dust. Elegance in fruit flavour and very fine tannins though no lack of tannic structure thanks to so many small berries. (JH)