2018 Domaine Duroche, Gevrey-Chambertin, Le Clos

For reports and full tasting notes, go toTim Atkin MW's website.

The 2018 Gevrey-Chambertin Le Clos reveals a pretty bouquet of sweet berry fruit, cherries and candied peel that's pure and expressive. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, supple and layered, with powdery structuring tannins and good length on the finish. Le Clos derives from a parcel planted in 1998 in lieu-dit Le Village, situated at the foot of the combe Lavaux on alluvial soils.

The 2018 Gevrey-Chambertin Le Clos was the first parcel that Duroché picked. It delivers plenty of raspberry, wild strawberry and damp earthy aromas, though perhaps not showing quite the same delineation as the Gevrey Champs at the moment. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannin, a lovely bead of acidity and more flesh than the Champs, as well as a little more depth on the finish. Very approachable in style, this should drink nicely over the next 12 to 15 years.

Destemmed, as all the village wines. In the middle of the village next to the church. Freshness comes from the cooling effect of the Combe Lavaux, a little valley. Tank sample but about to be bottled. Mid cherry. Riper than the village wine and just a touch spicy, darker fruited but apparently a cooler site. Richer and sweeter on the palate yet balanced by bright acidity. Opens to a more mineral stony character. Lovely freshness with fine, dry, peppery tannins. Persistent too, finely textured. (JH)