2019 Bernard Dugat-Py, Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru, Petite Chapelle Vieilles Vignes

The 2019 Gevrey-Chambertin Petite Chapelle 1er Cru was picked on the first day of harvest, along with the Charmes-Chambertin and Mazoyères. Containing 50% whole bunch, it is very perfumed on the nose, the most floral of Dugat-Py’s Premier Crus, but thankfully the gushing violet and peony aromas do not obscure the fruit expression. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, more understated than I anticipated after the aromatics. This ends up a streamlined Petite Chapelle of wonderful delineation and salinity (though maybe the Champeaux has a little more complexity overall at this early juncture). Not so Petite!

Some of it Leroy-style with shoots rolled not trimmed but the vines stayed green. Part of their work has been to keep vines green. From 2018 they serve Petite-Chapelle after Lavaut. Cask sample. Real breadth and completeness on the nose. Pretty dry finish. Needs a lot of time. Lots of tannin and matière – very youthful. Grand cru density but not the charm of the Lavaut. (JR)