2017 Bernard Dugat-Py, Gevrey-Chambertin, Cuvee Coeur de Roy Tres Vieilles Vignes

Three parcels, all of them planted with the old-vine massal selections that are an important feature of the Dugat-Py holdings, make up this superb village red. It's focussed, fragrant and refined, with subtle aromatic spices from 50% whole bunches, glossy tannins and a fresh, mineral-edged finish.

The 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin Coeur du Roy wafts from the glass with an inviting bouquet of cassis, dark berries, smoked meats, dark chocolate and rich soil tones. It's medium to full-bodied, deep and concentrated, its textural attack segueing into a layered, ample mid-palate that's framed by exquisitely refined, powdery tannins. Long and sapid, this is a decidedly serious communal bottling that will reward a decade's bottle age and see out its 30th birthday in style.

50- to 108-year-old vines. 20–25 hl/ha so not overworked but they still had to do a green harvest. Healthy because no mechanisation. Very few problems with esca but they prune late for the old vines (February) when the sap is rising. 50% new oak and 50% whole bunch. Prettier and more red-fruited on the nose than Les Evocelles. Supple and silky and beautifully fresh, the tannins more supple than on Les Evocelles. Again, the fruit is really ripe here but with no loss of freshness. There’s an honesty and integrity, without artifice. Needs time. (JH)