2016 Bernard Dugat-Py, Gevrey-Chambertin, Cuvee Coeur de Roy Tres Vieilles Vignes

Richer and more gourmand than Les Evocelles, the 2016 Gevrey-Chambertin Coeur du Roy wafts from the glass with a deep-pitched bouquet of cassis, blackberries, grilled meats, rose petals, espresso roast and dark chocolate. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, ample and layered, with a deep, fleshy core of intensely concentrated old vine fruit that largely conceals its fine structuring tannins, underpinned by succulent acids and concluding with a long, palate-staining finish. If Les Evocelles offers a more tensile, mineral expression of the appellation, the Coeur du Roy is the stereotypical Gevrey in all its glory.

The Coeur de Roy cuvée, which derives from vines between 60 and 150 years of age, is absolutely superb in 2016, bursting from the glass with notes of cassis, crisp wild berry fruit, cherry and truffle, framed by a touch of new oak. The wine is full-bodied and rich, almost gourmand, with lovely depth, succulent acids and near-painful levels of concentration. This was vinified with 50% whole cluster fruit and really transcends one’s expectations of a village wine.

For reports and full tasting notes, go toTim Atkin MW's website.

50- to 102-year-old vines, 60% whole bunch, two-thirds new oak. Very lifted and concentrated. Luscious fruit and very immediate even if there is considerable structure underneath. Big and bold but a bit more freshness than of old. (JR)