2015 Bernard Dugat-Py, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru, Vieilles Vignes

The 2015 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru from Domaine Dugat-Py is spectacular and the most exuberant and fruit-driven of the domaine's grand crus, opening in the glass with a lavish bouquet of Griotte cherry, fruit compote, licorice and incipient hints of rich soil. On the palate, the wine is expansive and full-bodied, its ample chassis of velvety tannins entirely cloaked in a deep core of succulent fruit, its finish long and sappy. This is usually the first of the domaine's holdings to be harvested—in this case, on September 5—and it is also often the most precociously immediate in its youth: in both respects, the 2015 rendition is true to type.

(70% vendange entier ; two-thirds Charmes and one-third Mazoyères): Inviting aromas of crushed cassis, boysenberry, licorice and leather. Very concentrated and pliant, with an impression of chocolatey ripeness slightly leavened by strong, well-integrated acidity. Showing its oaky side today, and although it's quite full and horizontal in the mouth, it's not yet revealing quite the fruit interest of the Lavaux-Saint-Jacques. Finishes with substantial dusty tannins and sneaky length.

Contains one-third Mazoyères, of 40 years old, since 1996. One 80-year-old parcel and one planted in 1981. 60% whole bunch. 100% new oak. Leathery freshness and zest on the nose. Mid weight on the palate. Just a little sinewy on the palate. Somehow ‘greener’ than some of their other wines. Just a bit less sweetness. And a tad astringent on the end. But it’s serious all right! (JR)