2001 Bernard Dugat-Py, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru, Vieilles Vignes

Chocolate-covered black cherries can be discerned in the viscous aromas of the 2001 Charmes-Chambertin. This huge, medium to full-bodied wine has exceptional depth of fruit. Its personality displays a flavor profile reminiscent of cherry syrup-laced with vanilla beans. Ample, lush, and rich, its stupendous finish reveals waves of fruit and copious, exquisitely ripened tannin. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2015. No offense to Peter Weygandt, this estate’s importer, but can anyone think of an easier job than having to sell Bernard Dugat’s wines? For the past decade, this 7.5 hectare (18.53 acre) domaine has consistently produced exceptional wines, a testimony to the relentless pursuit of quality exhibited by Dugat, his wife, and children. “Yes, it’s true that we live in the vineyards, working from morning to night, but the primary reasons we don’t have the same problems as many others in Burgundy is that we concentrate on having low yields and are fortunate enough to have old vines,” sais Bernard Dugat. Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Peter Weygandt, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800

Bright ruby. Huge, perfumed, three-dimensional nose of sappy, roasted black raspberry, mocha and smoked meat. Wonderfully sweet and sappy; layered and rich but also sharply delineated. Extremely harmonious wine, the sweetest yet of these 2001s. Finishes with noble, enrobed, building tannins, a flavor of torrefaction and great clinging persistence. I had a hard time getting this off my palate, not that I wanted to.

Tasting note: Extremely ripe, forward, powerful and vigorous red fruit notes lead to gorgeously detailed, ultra precise, very classy, very full-bodied flavors that just ooze sap and richness on the compellingly long finish. This is a very powerful wine and certainly denser and richer than the Petite Chapelle but not necessarily more elegant or finer.

Extremely deep colour and amost overripe nose. Very sumptuous and gorgeous and, compared to the other wines, positively subtle. Masses of brûlée fruit flavours on top of tannins. Long, dry seductive. (Cask sample). (JR)