2014 Claude Dugat, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru

The 2014 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru has a well-defined bouquet, the oak here nicely integrated with the fruit that consists of blackberry and wild strawberry, underneath mineral scents joined by rose petals that unfurl with time. The palate is medium-bodied and silky smooth in texture, opening nicely in the glass with its refined and very pure, very Charmes-like finish. Whereas the entry-level wines left me wanting more, this Grand Cru pushes all the right buttons.

For reports and full tasting notes, go toTim Atkin MW's website.

Pungent aromas of red berries, minerals and spicy oak. A step up in fruit sweetness over the premier crus but currently dominated by its saline minerality and coffee torrefaction. Strong acidity gives the wine excellent life in the mouth but also a faintly tart edge. This wine just started to open up in November, said Bertrand on my December visit.