2019 Domaine Tawse, Volnay Premier Cru, Fremiets

The 2019 Volnay Les Fremiets 1er Cru is 50% whole bunch and matured in 30% new oak, from a vineyard that is being picked earlier these days. It has quite a distant bouquet, strict and not opulent as you expect from this site. It is earthy in style with woodland aromas percolating through the black and red berry fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannins, and lightly spiced with a tang of seaweed toward the somewhat understated finish. Maybe I would have liked a little more charm, but at the very least it conveys a sense of class.

61-year-old vines on the Pommard side of Volnay, upper slopes. 50% whole bunch, 30% new oak. Tank sample. Very fragrant indeed with real lift and savour. A charming spread of fruit on the front palate and then pure Volnay fruity delicacy all the way to the end. Finer-boned than most of these Marchand wines. (JR)