2012 Domaine Tawse, Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru, Lavaux St-Jacques

The 2012 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaut Saint-Jacques apparently needed more time for the wood to fully integrate. It has a lifted, quite feminine bouquet with dark berry and summer fruit, a suggestion of ripe Satsuma developing with aeration. The palate is ripe and silky on the entry, lithe in the mouth, with a fine line of acidity. This feels so caressing that it will be difficult to resist after bottling. Drink 2016-2025+. I have a strong affection for Domaine Maume, whose unapologetically traditional, often herbaceous wines had a propensity to evolve into quite compelling expression of Pinot Noir that you either love or hate. Certainly, when I conducted a vertical of their Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru back to the mid-1980s several years ago, I was not alone in appreciating their freshness and terroir expression. They ticked enough boxes for me. Winemaker Bertrand Maume had a canny knack of creating wines that initially seemed to lack depth, yet given bottle age and aeration, revealed hidden depths that made his wines mysteriously captivating. I use the past tense because in 2011 the family shareholders decided to capitalize on their interest and among much speculation, sold to Murray Tawse, who backs winemaker Pascal Marchand. The good news is that Bertrand has been retained and was present when I tasted recent releases. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant Importer, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524; Fax (510) 528-7026. Also through Berry Brothers in the UK.

Bright medium red. Primary aromas and flavors of black cherry and dark berries are lifted by a floral note. Dense, sappy and serious, showing very good acidity and cut. Sweeter and fuller than the Champeaux, and without that wine's herbal element. The dry, slowly mounting finish features a violet pastille quality.