2002 Joseph Drouhin, Musigny Grand Cru

The 2002 Musigny Grand Cru is slightly paler than the 2007. It has an exquisite nose of pressed rose petals plus hints of clove and sous-bois . The palate is beautifully balanced, presenting a mélange of red and black fruit and traces of tobacco, and becoming fleshier and grippier toward the finish. Maybe not a showstopper like the 1999, but a really gorgeous wine. Tasted at the Drouhin Musigny vertical in London.

Good red-ruby. Complex, soil-inflected aromas of raspberry, blackberry, minerals, rose petal, violet, smoked meat and espresso. Very sweet on entry, then wonderfully concentrated, densely packed and broad, with superb precision and verve. The impression of strong soil character and thorough ripeness carries through to the very long finish, which features fine tannins and a mineral firmness. Potentially great. Yes, Philippe actually showed me this beauty after the Clos Vougeot but before four other grand crus.

The floral 2002 Musigny came across as high-toned, tightly-wound, and appeared colder than any of the others (yet was at the same temperature). Possibly caught on a bad day, it displayed appealingly juicy and pure red as well as black fruit flavors yet was firm and acidic. In fairness, readers should know that Mme. Jobard was taken aback by how it performed, stating she’d never witnessed it acting in this manner. Judgment reserved. Importer: Dreyfus Ashby, New York, NY; tel. (212) 818-0770