2023 Joseph Drouhin, Montrachet Grand Cru, Marquis de Laguiche

Almost impossibly lush, with pronounced aromas of ripe melons and passionfruit, accented with notes of acacia flowers and butter. Despite the concentration of fruit aromas, the texture remains elegant and balanced. The grapes are from an enormous holding at the northern end of Montrachet, pressed as whole clusters and aged over two winters in cask (30% new); this was tasted out of a three-year-old cask. To judge from recent experience, it is best to leave this 20 years before opening, if one can wait.

For reports and full tasting notes, go toTim Atkin MW's website.

The 2023 Montrachet Marquis de Laguiche Grand Cru is a rich, lavish wine, bursting with aromas of honeyed pears, toasted nuts, baking spices, orange oil and white flowers. Full-bodied, broad and layered, it's satiny and seamless, with a deep core of fruit and a long, sapid finish.

Amazing that this is on the tasting! Very rich and friendly, with some leafy notes and a lovely balance between intense fruit and the Drouhin delicate touch. So smooth! So long! No hurry to drink this savoury star. (JR)