2017 Joseph Drouhin, Montrachet Grand Cru, Marquis de Laguiche

This is youthfully restrained for now with exotic essence of lemon, lime and grapefruit. The intensity and purity of the aromas is really captivating. Strong, flinty minerals and stones, too. The palate has a very plush, richly textural and expansive feel with extremely powerful tension between exceptionally concentrated citrus fruit and extremely intense acidity. Wow! Try from 2022.

The 2017 Montrachet Marquis de Laguiche Grand Cru was showing very well indeed, unwinding in the glass with aromas of Meyer lemon, tangerine, dried white flowers, green orchard fruit, beeswax and wet stones. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, ample and expansive, with considerable volume and breadth at the core that's balanced by lively acids that lend the wine energy and tension. The finish is long and pure. This is a beautifully balanced Montrachet that I expect to show very well in bottle.

The 2017 Montrachet Grand Cru, farmed on behalf of the Laguiche family since 1947, was picked September 5–8 in three different passes through three parcels. It is matured in a modest 30% new oak. It has a very crisp bouquet of crushed wet limestone, Granny Smith apples, shaved almond and light orange pith notes. The lightly spiced palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity and some lime and clementine notes. It is very persistent in the mouth, showing impressive depth and tension toward the citric finish.

Tighter and better balanced than the Drouhins' Les Embazées premier cru in 2017, this is entirely sourced from the prestigious Laguiche holdings. It has a beautifully judged combination of leesy texture, aromatic spices and 30% new wood, finishing with bright, refreshing acidity.

Cloudy appearance. Aromas of nectarine, lemon, lime, white flowers, chalk and iodine convey atypical early sex appeal for Montrachet. Thick, chewy and voluminous but not a bit coarse. Less powerful and austere than the Corton-Charlemagne but with a real Roto-Rooter of a finish that saturates and cleanses the palate. A distinctly refined wine with serious opulence allied to lovely salinity and lift--and massive in the context of this cellar. This very chewy, harmonious Montrachet shows great potential.

Picked 5–7 September. Three parcels. Cask sample, not yet blended. About 30% new oak. They season the wood at their winery. Smells tighter and a little more dusty than the Corton-Charlemagne. Richer fruit flavour on the palate compared with the Marquis de Laguiche Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeot, citrus veering to apricot. Creamy, deep, powerful and endlessly long. (JH)