2022 Jean-Paul & Benoit Droin, Chablis Grand Cru, Hommage a Louis

A cuvée sourced from three plots ranging from cailloux-dominated soils to the east by Blanchot; blue-clay soils in the central area; and blue-clay/brown clay in the western plot beneath Valmur. Loads of spice, very powerful, a wine with great character and personality. Needs time to settle down but has lots of potential.

The 2022 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru Hommage à Louis has quite a malic, green apple and Anjou pear-scented nose that unfurls beautifully in the glass. The palate is taut and linear, with moderate depth, clamming up slightly towards the finish compared with the Grenouilles or Valmur.

Fermented with ambient yeasts in stainless-steel vats. Malo followed by assemblage after 8 to 10 months. Tasted blind. Sleek and flattering – so polished! Really appetising. (JR)