2018 Jean-Paul & Benoit Droin, Chablis Grand Cru, Vaudesir

The 2018 Chablis Vaudésir Grand Cru is one of the most exotic, flamboyant wines in the range. Marzipan, candied lemon confit, passionfruit and honeyed notes add to an impression of deep, exotic beauty. The 2018 isn't a shy wine, nor it is exactly subtle, but it is flat-out delicious and arresting in its beauty. Drink it with richer foods.

For reports and full tasting notes, go toTim Atkin MW's website.

The 2018 Chablis Vaudésir Grand Cru is cut from a similar cloth to the Valmur, though I find that it does not possess the same tension or race. The bouquet offers satisfying intensity, featuring honeysuckle, passion fruit and touches of lemon, though I miss the mineralité and terroir expression that I find in other vintages. The palate is powerful and delivers plenty of finely tuned tropical fruit, though again, the essence of "Chablis-ness," its DNA, is partly erased by vintage expression. A thoroughly enjoyable Chablis, though not a memorable one.