2014 Joseph Drouhin, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru

For reports and full tasting notes, go toTim Atkin MW's website.

The 2014 Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru was picked on September 13, whole cluster fruit and aged for 14 months in oak. It has one of the better Corton-Charlemagne noses, perhaps more intensity and vigor on the nose with almond and coconut sprinkled over the citrus fruit, yet not quite fully letting go. The palate is fresh on the entry with lime and green apple, quite saline in the mouth. The oak here is nicely integrated and just extends the finish, yet still, I found myself wanting this to fan out a little more, spread the peacock's tail further.

(Drouhin's vines are in the east-facing lieu-dit La Guette, which received less hail in 2014 than the Pernand side of the hill): Pale bright yellow. Very reticent nose hints at rose water and crushed herbs. Fat and rich but dry and closed. Ripe and tactile but very shy in the early going, conveying a dominant flavor of mineral dust. The broad finish shows subtle length and lingering perfume.

14 months in oak. Lovely creamy nose, hint of toast. Pure creamy citrus freshness. Rich and generous on the palate, with orange and lemon citrus flavours. Deep, almost chewy in its depths, very fresh and sustained and satisfying but still mouth-wateringly fresh. (JH)

Served blind alongside a much more mature Bonneau du Martray 1993. Crisp, liveley and quite a mouthful apparently on the way up to its peak. (JR)