2007 Drouhin-Vaudon, Chablis Grand Cru, Vaudesir

The Drouhin 2007 Chablis Vaudesir displays greater concentration – above all of fusil, chalky, saline, savory, and smoky “mineral” aspects, which utterly suffuse it – than any other of this year’s Drouhin Chablis bottlings. The herbal aromatic pungency and the zesty expression of citrus add hints of invigoration, but the overall impression is one of serenity and refinement, incorporating hyacinth and heliotrope perfume in liquid form. Ripe white peach and deep suggestions of malt and lobster bisque – allied to creaminess of texture – add to the seductive, layered presentation of this wine, which should merit following for 8-10 years. Drouhin 2007 Chablis offerings aptly illustrate the house style: understated yet immediately engaging and full of nuance, polished but not in the least superficial. Importer: Dreyfus-Ashby & Co., New York, NY; tel. (212) 818-0770

Completely barrel-fermented over 10-12 months, this has a reticent nose with a touch of peardrop, building nicely with some leesy aromas. The palate is quite pert and lively, green apples on the entry, nice acidity with crisp green apple and citrus fruit towards the finish. Harmonious and well-crafted. Drink 2010-2017. Tasted January 2009.

Riper aromas of peach, lemon, gunflint and butter, with a suggestion of candied orange. Then brisk and fruit-driven on the palate, with orange and ripe grapefruit flavors dominating. Finishes with excellent grip. More classic than the 2006.