2014 Domaine de la Romanee-Conti, La Tache Grand Cru

The 2014 La Tâche Grand Cru is a very refined nose, so much so that blind I might mistake it from Romanée-Conti (as I opined to Bertrand de Villaine himself). Very precise, extremely pure and with wonderful mineralité, there is a lucidity embroidered into this wine. The palate is medium-bodied, symmetrical, with a little edginess creeping in here that lends the finish a sense of animation. The fruit shades from red to more black as it opens, yet the aftertaste is extraordinarily long and persistent. There is a kind of magic in this La Tâche.

Bright medium red. Ineffably complex, pure scents of fresh raspberry, cherry, rose petal, peppery spices, crushed herbs and mint. Almost surprisingly silky on entry, then sweet but very restrained, even a bit ungiving, in the middle palate, with pungent red berry and mineral flavors conveying an impression of electric energy. This wine builds slowly and inexorably with air, opening out into a peacock's talk of a finish that's lifted by a pungent hint of green pepper. This youthfully austere wine will need a good 15 years to display its inherent flesh and richness but even today it stands out for its finesse.

Lightish garnet. Like the Richebourg, there is an initial sweetness here. Smells so cool and delicately fragrant. Then on the palate, there is real power, the tannins holding everything in tightly as on the Grands Échezeaux but here the acidity spills around the edges and lifts it to terrific intensity on the palate. Firm, chalky texture but still fluid. Long and so refined that the power is disguised. In the empty glass, there is a return to fruit sweetness, showing the complexity and range in this wine. (JH)

Not as open aromatically as it often is – much less convincing than Romanée Conti. Something mineral packed in there. A hint of violets but also something meaty. More savoury than Tâche often is – less hedonistic. Sinewy and demands time. Lots of firm tannins on the end. Great energy. Almost electric! Opened out with time. Very long. (JR)