2002 Domaine de la Romanee-Conti, Romanee-Conti Grand Cru

Like many 2002s at five years of age, this is really beginning to close up and become a good deal less expressive. Vigorous swirling however coaxes a superbly detailed if reluctant nose of dried rose petals, kirsch and plenty of spice elements. The medium weight plus flavors are taut, focused, very backward, powerful and punchy and like the nose, blessed with seriously impressive detail and layer after layer of sappy extract and incredible depth. Impeccably balanced with a certain tenderness here with tannins that are sophisticated and quite fine with the classic Romanée-Conti character of an almost spiritual sense of harmony. Though it will need a lot of time, this will become a great vintage for Romanée-Conti

The 2002 Romanée-Conti Grand Cru was picked on September 21 at 25hl/ha. It is a very fine wine, if not belonging to the very highest echelon of Romanée-Conti like the 1999 or 2005. Appearance-wise, it has a little more degradation on the rim than expected. It feels uncompromising and forthright on the nose and I can just feel that stem addition, hints of bell pepper and iron filings complementing the brambly red fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with a silky texture, perfect acidity and linearity. It is here that this Romanée-Conti comes into its own, conveying unerring symmetry and poise and extraordinary length. It is by no means a perfect wine yet it is disarmingly alluring. 5,548 bottles produced. Tasted at the Romanée-Conti dinner at the Connaught Hotel.

Good deep red. Reticent aromas of plum, mocha and earth; currently in a shell and not showing the treble notes of La Tache. Then silky and thick but very closed, even inscrutable. Comes across as less sweet and less vibrant today than La Tache, but this is chewy, voluminous and quite powerful, with very good supporting acidity. Offers complex, soil-inflected flavors of tobacco, underbrush, damp soil and menthol, but less of the spicy high tones of La Tache. But the tannins here are even suaver, and the wine is at least as long. Give this and La Tache 12 to 15 years of aging.

The 2002 Romanee-Conti sports a nose of orange zests, stones, herbs, and violets. Its delicate, light to medium-bodied character opens to reveal silky layers of black cherries, black currants, fresh herbs, and roses. Firm, unresolved tannin can be detected in its lengthy finish. Projected maturity: 2009-2018. Importer: Wilson Daniels, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-9661