2004 Domaine de la Romanee-Conti, Richebourg Grand Cru

Frankly, I did not expect the 2004 Richebourg Grand Cru to show so well because of the notorious growing season. It has a precise floral bouquet that blossoms in the glass: dark berry and cola, no signs of any greenness, just a mote of leafiness. The palate is very well balanced with wonderful sapidity. It builds wonderfully with touches of white-tipped strawberry and Morello cherry towards the grippy finish. Tender and prolonged, this is deeply impressive. Tasted at the Richebourg vertical dinner in Taipei.

This is in the same stylistic camp as the Grands Échezeaux as it is surprisingly understated and subtle with an intensely floral nose of red and black fruit aromas that are nuanced and beautifully elegant, merging seamlessly into linear, reserved, indeed almost brooding flavors that are as once supple yet precise and detailed, all wrapped in a powerful and muscular finish that delivers striking length. This is a really interesting wine because it's a wine of contrasts yet it works because there is a gorgeous combination of finesse and power and again, I really like the sense of drive and energy here as well as the first rate balance. A terrific '04.

Good deep red. Expressive, complex nose combines darker, wilder fruits with musky underbrush. Sweet, suave and pure, with somewhat muscular fruit character compared to the more feminine RSV. Then quite suave on the finish, with powdery tannins and noteworthy purity and persistence. This has lovely balance.