2000 Domaine de la Romanee-Conti, Richebourg Grand Cru

The 2000 Richebourg Grand Cru is far better than the '98 on this occasion. Open-knit on the nose and quite ferrous, it gains cohesion with hints of peat and black truffle. This is very charming. The palate is medium-bodied and fleshier than I presupposed, with fine acidity and the structure and length you want from a Richebourg. Hints of candied orange peel build towards the finish. Maybe a little saccharine in style, this is a charming millennial DRC that has much to offer after 25 years. Tasted at the Richebourg vertical dinner in Taipei.

Notably ripe, indeed even notes of torrefaction and roast espresso beans that also reflect intense floral aromas precede big, robust, forceful austere black fruit flavors that have slightly drying tannins but not as much density and length as usual. Really quite regal but in more of a middle weight than its normal massive, well muscled and structured character and this will need plenty of time to arrive at its apogee.

Good full red. Tight nose hints at cassis, violet, meat and truffle. Firmly built, suave and penetrating; not especially pliant or sweet but harmonious acidity gives it good shape. Finishes with firm tannic spine and a suggestion of slightly funky wood.