2020 Domaine de la Romanee-Conti, Echezeaux Grand Cru

The 2020 Echézeaux Grand Cru is one of the standouts in this tasting. Opulent and sumptuous to the core, the Echézeaux is a real head-turner. I suppose it is not as complex as some of the other wines in this range, but as Aubert de Villaine once said to me about his Montrachet "You don't always want complex, do you?" A rush of dark blue/purplish fruit, spice, chocolate, spice and lavender races across the palate. Readers will find a racy, hedonistic Burgundy that will drink well with minimal cellaring. What a wine!

The 2020 Échézeaux Grand Cru has turned out just as well in bottle as I hoped it might. Unusually muscular and concentrated for this bottling, it unwinds in the glass with aromas of mulberries and blackberries mingled with orange zest and exotic spices, framed by a deft touch of new oak. Full-bodied, broad and velvety, with a deep core of fruit framed by rich, powdery tannins, it concludes with a long, expansive finish.

The 2020 Echézeaux Grand Cru was picked on 30 August and 1 September at 28.2hL/ha. The floral aspect of the vineyard is nicely accentuated on the nose. There's a mélange of red and black fruit, a slight creaminess coming through with time and then this ebbs to offer light sous-bois scents. The palate is medium-bodied with a vivid entry of wild strawberry and blackcurrant. A polished Echézeaux, nicely proportioned, not the most complex in recent years (I suspect the 2020 might surpass it in that respect), though there is ample weight and dimension. It gains delineation in the glass, though the Corton has a little more persistence at the moment. 1,280 cases produced. Tasted at Corney & Barrow’s annual in bottle tasting in London.