2010 Domaine de la Romanee-Conti, Echezeaux Grand Cru

Things really take off with the 2010 Echezeaux, which is a meaningful step up from the earlier wines in this tasting. The 2010 surprises for its size and sheer volume. It boasts phenomenal depth and richness in its intense dark red fruit. The sheer energy and vibrancy of the fruit is remarkable. A huge, explosive finish makes it impossible to resist a second taste. This is a great showing from the Echezeaux, even if the 2010 is notably bigger than is typical for this bottling. The Echezeaux was the last fruit to be picked in 2010. Anticipated maturity: 2020-2040. I tasted the 2010s twice from barrel, once in the summer just as the wines were about to be racked and then again during my early December visit. On both occasions the wines were stellar. Like virtually all of his colleagues, co-manager Aubert de Villaine was surprised by the level of the 2010s given all of the challenges of the growing season. I could repeat everything de Villaine told me, but there is no better source than the man himself, so readers who want to learn more about the 2010 harvest may want to take a look at my interview with de Villaine on www.erobertparker.com. Overall, I am very impressed with the 2010s with the exception of the Corton, which appears to be a notch or two below the 2009. The 2010 that most greatly exceeds its appellation and historical level of quality is the Echezeaux. I also tasted the 2010 Vosne-Romanee Cuvee Duvault-Blochet but the domaine had not yet decided if the wine would be released. I will report on the 2009s in our April issue. Importer: Wilson-Daniels, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-9661

This year, the Echezeaux was picked over two days on the 1st and 2nd October at 24hl/ha. Compared to recent vintages, the aromatics would like to make more of an impression with a mixture of red and black fruit intermingling with scents of limestone and with continued aeration, a hint of dark plum and cured meat. This certainly repays time in the glass as it reveals a different facet with each passing moment. The palate is medium-bodied with crisp acidity. The structure is more resolute and foursquare than the 2009 tasted last year. This is an Echezeaux that is more masculine, perhaps more serious and just a little introspective towards the finish. It steps off the accelerator towards the finish, which is graceful and refined, a ferrous note lingering on the aftertaste with a twist of sour cherry. Total production is 1247 cases. Tasted January 2013.

(70% vendange entier ): Good bright, deep red. Aromatic nose combines raspberry, truffley underbrush and vanillin oak. Sweet and broad in the middle, with lovely red berry and earth flavors offering considerable early appeal in spite of the recent racking. Finishes with plenty of tannic support.

Very sweet and charming without being at all heavy. Flirtatious. Strawberry. Still quite a bit of tannin. (JR)