2013 Domaine de la Romanee-Conti, Corton Grand Cru, Prince Florent de Merode

(90% destemmed): Good deep red. Ethereal aromas of red berries, minerals and spicy oak. Juicy, spicy and penetrating, conveying a light touch and excellent energy to the flavors of red fruits, pepper, herbs and licorice. Finishes with firm, ripe tannins and a spicy perfume that leaves the mouth refreshed.

The 2013 Corton is incredibly dark in this vintage. Smoke, leather, dark spices, plums and black cherries coat the palate in a textured, exotic wine endowed with serious depth. This is the first sign that DRC's 2013s are very reticent at this stage. As always, the Corton is a blend of fruit from Bressandes, Clos du Roi and Renardes.

The 2013 Corton Grand Cru already has a precise bouquet with dark berries and light floral scents, not a million miles away from the 2010. The palate is medium-bodied, nicely structured, distant at first, but warming to you. There is a slight earthiness toward the finish that is precise and focused with a dash of white pepper near the finish. This should evolve into a quite splendid Corton Grand Cru.

Immediately lighter than 2012 tasted just before and with a bit more angular tannin and acidity but still pretty sprauncy. Charm itself. Polished. Fresh. (JR)